In a quiet corner of the Kalsa, this restaurant is set in several small, simple rooms on the lower floor of the beautiful Palazzo Valguarnera-Gangi (film buffs take note: The ballroom scene in The Leopard was filmed upstairs). The menu changes from osteria offerings in winter to fanciful variations on fresh seasonal ingredients in summer, when the main dining scene moves to a terrace out front. Reasonably priced winter set menus feature such well-prepared basics as pasta alla Norma (with eggplant) and grilled meats, while summertime tasting menus are a bit fussier and more expensive, offering such Sicilian classics as softly roasted tuna and pasta with sea urchins.