This neighborhood institution spills out on a corner that it shares with the sprawling Marché d’Aligre. It has only a few tables, so most people stand at the counter or outside, glass in hand, especially during market hours. Huge vats of wine are stacked up inside, and you can fill up if you bring a bottle. In season, platters of oysters accompany your wine; otherwise, the menu is limited to cheese and charcuterie. It’s a little rough and tumble getting in your drink order at the bar, but that’s half the fun.