This place has everything you always wanted in a French bistro: antique tile floors, banquettes, vested waiters, and a dark rose color scheme. The menu also reflects the traditions of yesteryear, with an emphasis on game dishes in autumn and fresh produce in summer. Appetizers include several different terrines, including home-made foie gras; main dishes feature both meaty items like 7-hour lamb and lighter fare like sea bream with fennel and star anise. Top it all off with a Grand Marnier soufflé (a specialty of the house). The restaurant has a smaller and more relaxed version of itself next door, the Comptoir Marguery, where prices are lower and the menu is a little more basic, and there is another outpost of the main restaurant, Au Petit Marguery Rive Droite, at 64 avenue des Ternes on the right bank.
- Margie Rynn