After more than a decade of neo-bistro cooking (modern takes on traditional French dishes), Parisians have finally started to long for the classics that the city’s next-generation chefs have been subverting (albeit so deliciously) for so long. When nothing but smoked Morteau sausage and lentils or veal blanquette will do, those in the know head to Buffet. This small, no-frills dining room is run by a young, talented team of chefs and waitstaff, yet it exudes pre-war nostalgia, from the gingham paper tablecloths and the globe lights, to the piped mayonnaise on the popular hard-boiled egg starter. Save room for dessert: The gooey chocolate fondant and rum baba are superlative.