This neighborhood institution packs a flavorful punch. Red-checkered tablecloths provide a homey background for excellent bistro dishes like thick steak with a pepper sauce and creamy mashed potatoes, veal liver with caramelized onions, or the boeuf bourguignon, the specialty of the house. You could start with a nice, light sea bass tartare or a rich, grilled marrowbone. Whatever your choice, it will be executed with loving care and quality ingredients, which is why this restaurant has a devoted clientele.