This restaurant, brasserie, and piano bar was a favorite of Picasso and Gertrude Stein, not to mention Ernest Hemingway, who downed whiskey here so often that both the bar and a signature dish (panfried steak in creamy whiskey sauce) bear his name. With such history, you’d expect this to be on every tourist’s radar, but the Closerie has managed to remain resolutely Parisian, drawing in locals with the promise of indulgent dishes like fresh seafood platters, panfried sweetbreads, and even caviar with steamed potatoes and cream. Literary fans will be pleased to learn that every year, the Closerie awards female writers with prestigious literary prizes, the Prix de la Closerie, Prix Lilas, and Lilas du Livre.