Sure, you come here for the pressed duck (the signature dish—each duck has been numbered since 1890), but the real reason to come to the “Silver Tower” is to sample its history, its view, and its incredible service. Five or six different waiters will visit your table at one time or another, accomplishing various tasks (opening wine bottles, pulling out your chair, and even leading you to the bathroom) with utmost professionalism and not a hint of snobbery. They then discreetly disappear into the rich décor as you gaze through the huge windows that give you a first-class view of Notre-Dame’s flying buttresses. By the time you’ve finished your meal (which still merits its one Michelin star), you feel like a pasha. The fixed-price lunch is a good way to enjoy this singular experience without ruining your budget. Be sure to reserve at least a week in advance; jackets required for men at dinner.
- Margie Rynn