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Chef Alain Passard made waves when he decided to put vegetables, not meat, in the spotlight at his acclaimed restaurant. You can still find meat on the menu, but it takes a back seat to carrots, turnips, sweet peas, or whatever other lovely plant life is in season. This pristine produce, which comes from Passard’s organic farm near Le Mans, is often picked in the morning and ends up on diners’ plates the same evening. Uneaten food makes the return journey and becomes compost. Food politics aside, the flavors that Passard coaxes from these vegetables are truly remarkable. The menu comes in two sections: the “grand crus” of the vegetable garden, and the “memory” dishes, medallions of lobster in honey with a “transparence” of Atlantic turnip, or a creamy risotto with “garden treasures.” Service is discreet, as one expects at a restaurant frequented by diplomats and executives, and the dining room, with etched glass, burnished steel, and pearwood paneling, is beautiful. Don’t miss the tarte aux pommes bouquet de roses (a tart composed of apple ribbons rolled into tiny rosettes). Reservations required at least 2 weeks in advance.