advertisement

The French famously declared Jerry Lewis a genius back in the day. It's that same wacky crowd grooving on the ambiance at Le Derrière. It’s a funhouse of a restaurant, with oddball touches in every corner including a table set next to a queen sized bed (guests can nap between courses if they like), an armoire that is actually a passage to a hidden bar/pool room, fiberglass casts of womens’ legs holding up end tables, and bizarre works of wall art everywhere you look. At such a restaurant you’d expect the appetizers to shine as that’s usually the place where chefs are best able to showcase their creativity. But it's the mains that impress, less for their whimsy than for their solidly satisfying takes on classic French fare, like a rich beef bourguignon,  the moist poulet, and a veal shortbreads dish your grandmother would have loved. The entrees are huge, so don’t feel shy about sharing (that will also help with the high cost). At the front is outdoor seating in a lovely ancient courtyard; off the front is a scenester bar called Andy Wahloo.