The name is old-fashioned slang for Paris, but this little bistro has a decidedly modern feel to it. Maybe it’s the mirrored column near the bar. In yet another case of runaway chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, here you’ll find flavorful updated bistro fare like braised sweetbreads with carrots in a licorice glaze, or suckling pig with pears, celery root, and chestnuts. It’s hard to resist indulging in dessert when the Grand Marnier soufflé is on the menu. The fixed-price menus at lunch and dinner are a terrific value, and the tiny dining room fills quickly; definitely reserve ahead.