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In an ancient building on the site where Louis XIII was crowned back in 1610, this acclaimed restaurant pays homage not only to the monarch, but to traditional French cuisine at its most illustrious. No tonka beans or reduced licorice sauce here—Chef Manuel Martinez trains his formidable talents on classic sauces and time-honored dishes like sea-bass quenelles and roast duck, though he’s not opposed to topping off the meal with a little lemon-basil sherbet at dessert. Signature dishes include lobster and foie gras ravioli and braised sweetbreads with wild mushrooms. The atmospheric dining room, crisscrossed with exposed beams and ancient stonework, makes you wonder if the Three Musketeers might not tumble through the doorway bearing your mille-feuille with bourbon vanilla cream.