Pierre Sang was a finalist in France’s TV cooking competition Top Chef, yet there’s nothing pretentious or showy about this restaurant. The open kitchen does provide entertainment, as Sang and his chefs chop, sizzle, and steam all sorts of spice-infused delights that send fragrant wafts over the long, shared tables. Expect a no-choice menu of Franco-Korean dishes made with whatever market-fresh ingredients have come in that week (though they’ll cater for allergies obviously; tell them as soon as you arrive). This might include a tender chicken and tarragon terrine, a crispy herring tempura, or spicy shrimp with bisque and gochujang (Asian chili sauce). If you’ve got foodie kids, it’s the place to bring them: Kids 8 and under eat free. Reserve in advance; it’s as popular as can be.