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It’s not every famous chef that can call himself “Mr. Goodfish.” Gael Orieux’s love of the sea and everything in it has led him to become spokesperson for an association dedicated to protecting the oceans. Naturally, that means that what you see on your plate is not only delicious, but also ecologically correct. Let’s hope he makes an impact on his clientele, many of whom are politicians taking a break from the nearby Assemblée Nationale. Aside from protecting fish, Orieux cooks it, serving some of the best seafood in town, and plates it with real flair. A dish of scallops with foie gras and enoki mushrooms might look like a Jackson Pollock abstract; a lacquered monkfish with lobster oil and nutmeg will be equally as artistic. Meat eaters are taken care of with dishes like blackened lamb with Cajun spices, white cherry juice, and yellow zucchini.