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Intricately carved Moorish designs cover the walls of this friendly restaurant, which serves some of the best couscous (grains of semolina) in Paris. A steaming heap of fine couscous, a savory bouillon with vegetables, and delicately grilled or roasted meat are the three main components of this dish, originally imported from North Africa and now wildly popular in France. Zerda offers a choice of lamb, chicken, and merguez (spicy lamb sausage) versions; my favorite is the meltingly tender “lamb cooked in sauce,” but all are good. If you prefer one of the scrumptious tagines (stews seasoned with such ingredients as dried fruits, olives, or preserved lemons), be patient: They take 20 minutes to prepare. A second location recently opened up at 125 rue de Tocqueville in the 17th arrondissement and offers a 19€ fixed-price lunch.