Cheap nibbles and a huge selection of wine by the glass draw a local crowd to this plain room with a long bar and battered wooden communal tables. Grilled panini (sandwiches) are on offer, but the real treats are the morsels of parmigiano with a dribble of balsamic vinegar from nearby Modena, slices of buttery prosciutto, and crostini, pieces of bread topped with everything from pesto to chicken livers.