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Public bemo buses are available along the main road from dawn to dusk or "express" buses between Singaraja and Gilimanuk are also available. Puri Ganesha offers transfers by Harley-Davidson bike with a "jockey" and a car for the luggage.

If you're traveling from the south or airport before 3pm, the quickest scenic drive over the central mountains takes around 3 1/2 hours. After 3pm, when the rush hour begins, be prepared to spend longer in the car. Transfers from Ubud take between 2 1/2 and 3 hours; from Amed and Candidasa, around 4 hours.

Taxis as such are not available, but there is Village Drivers Association (tel. 08/1337903234), although their rates are higher than finding someone direct.

Fast Facts -- The small Pemuteran Clinic (tel. 08/1915678011) has a doctor on call 24 hours who will also come to your hotel. If there is something really serious, call experienced, English-speaking Dr. Handra (tel. 08/123605733) who will come from Singaraja. He accepts credit cards -- and charges European prices. Because this is such a rural area, telephones and Internet connections, even those using satellites, tend to be erratic. There are no Internet cafes but most of the hotels do have an Internet service for their guests, albeit not necessarily on all day.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.