The city center scene is a lively mix of young locals and students from Pisa's prestigious university who gather -- on warm weekend nights especially -- around the central piazzas, Garibaldi, Cairoli, and San Paolo al'Orto in particular. The bar of the minute waxes and wanes, but Bazeel, Lungarno Pacinotti 1 (at Piazza Garibaldi; tel. 340-2881-113; www.bazeel.it) is ever popular for an aperitivo, live big-screen sports, cocktails, and DJ sets till late on weekends.  Sottobosco on Piazza San Paolo all'Orto 3 (tel. 050-991-2364; www.facebook.com/sottobosco.libricafe; closed Mon) is a bookish cafe by day, but after dark draws an artsy, well-dressed crowd sipping cocktails and bottled beers. There's also a dinner menu and often acoustic music sets after hours. Note: The city is very quiet in August, and many places close for almost the whole month.

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