The attractive, contemporary-styled, bottle-lined room in a narrow lane near Pistoia's produce market is small but the ambitions of the kitchen are large and focus on delicious and innovative takes on traditional standards. Pici Toscani al formaggio Shropshire tops thick pici noodles with a cheddar cheese sauce; and secondi include several variations of beef tartare. Don’t worry if you’d rather stick with the basics, because fegatello di S. Miniato con cipolla brasata al balsamico (that’s liver and onions) and even simple fagioli (beans) are done to perfection, and the wine list is soundly grounded in many excellent local choices.