Plovdiv's dining scene is not as stimulating as Sofia's, or even Varna's, but there certainly is plenty of choice, particularly along pedestrian Knyaz Aleksandur I Street, where cafes and pizzerias spill out onto the street. For a more intimate atmosphere you're better off grabbing a table in one of the cool walled courtyards in Old Plovdiv. Besides the places discussed below you will find two good options on 4th January Street: Janet (no. 3; tel. 032/626 044 or 032/634 149) and Ulpia (no 17; tel. 032/65 3747), both serving typical Bulgarian fare in wonderful 19th-century National Revival homes.

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