A Stop in Le Moule
To go back to Pointe-à-Pitre from Pointe des Châteaux, you can use an alternative route, the N5 from St-François. After a 14km (8 3/4-mile) drive, you'll reach the village of Le Moule, which was founded at the end of the 17th century and known long before Pointe-à-Pitre. It used to be a major shipping port for sugar but was devastated in the hurricane of 1928 and never regained its importance. Now it's a tiny coastal fishing village. Because it offers more than 15km (9 1/4 miles) of crescent-shaped beach, it's developing as a destination.
Specialties of this Guadeloupean village are palourdes, clams that thrive in the semisalty mouths of freshwater rivers. Known for being more tender and less rubbery than saltwater clams, they have a distinct sulfur taste not unlike that of overpoached eggs. Local gastronomes prepare them with saffron and aged rum or cognac.
To return to Pointe-à-Pitre, we suggest that you use Route D3 toward Abymes. The road winds around as you plunge deeply into Grand-Terre. About halfway along the way a road is signposted to Jabrun du Nord and Jabrun du Sud. These two villages are inhabited by Caucasians with blond hair, said to be survivors of aristocrats slaughtered during the Revolution. Those who escaped found safety by hiding out in Les Grands Fonds. The most important family here is named Matignon, and they gave their name to the colony known as "les Blancs Matignon." These citizens are said to be related to the late Prince Rainier of Monaco. Pointe-à-Pitre lies only 16km (10 miles) from Les Grand Fonds.