Among Portland’s sushi restaurants, Benkay is a stalwart, usually teeming with a lively local crowd lured by the affordable menus, though a new location in 2021, in the heart of the East End hotel district, has altered the character a bit. Chef Seiji Ando trained in Osaka and Kyoto; his sushi, sashimi, and maki rolls deliver a lot for the price, and there’s a wide range of choices and combinations. Standard Japanese bar-food items such as tempura (deep-fried vegetables), gyoza (dumplings), teriyaki, katsu (fried chicken or pork cutlets), and udon (thick noodles) are also served. For dessert, consider the green tea ice cream: deliciously bitter . . . and good for you. Sort of.