Maybe no restaurant is as emblematic of contemporary Portland dining as Eventide. The offerings are of the old-school Maine seafaring variety: a rotating selection of oysters (overwhelmingly local in season, many from the oyster mecca of the Damariscotta River), a brown-butter lobster roll that’s a rich and inventive twist on the state’s favorite proletarian treat, or a full-on clambake option, complete with a hardboiled egg nestled in a bed of rockweed. But the room is stylish and modern, with the raw bar occupying a huge hunk of gorgeous Maine granite, the accouterments are adventurous (think ginger and kimchi toppings on your half-shell), and the clientele (especially late) tends towards the young and urbane. Naturally, in this brunch-iest of New England towns, there’s a Sunday brunch, with lobster benedict and salt-pork and beans. Eventide’s a little on the dear side compared to no-frills oyster pubs on up the coast; it’s also one of Portland’s most fun dining experiences.