Good food served unpretentiously. Chef Harding Lee Smith, a Portland native, left Back Bay Grill, one of Portland’s legacy fine-dining establishments, to start his own local restaurant empire, including this mecca to meat. Most items are cooked on the open kitchen’s wood-fired grills, but there’s more than steak here: yummy seared-tuna sandwiches on ciabatta and thin-crust pizzas, for example. Of course, you can always get a steak (porterhouse, rib-eye, sirloin; the works) or a piece of grilled fish or chicken, and you’re encouraged to do so: There’s a card of tasty sauces running from “zippy” to “brandy cream” for your meat. The outdoor tables are ideal in summer, yet my favorite feature of the place is its bar area, with personable barkeeps, good beers on tap, and Red Sox on the flatscreen.