Good food served unpretentiously. Chef Harding Lee Smith, a Portland native, left Back Bay Grill, one of Portland’s legacy fine-dining establishments, to start his own local restaurant empire, including this mecca of meat. Most items are cooked on the open kitchen’s wood-fired grills, and steaks and chops are the stars of the show  (porterhouse, rib-eye, sirloin; the works), but the kitchen handles scallops, a salmon filet, or a duck breast just as ably. There’s a card of tasty sauces running from “zippy” to “brandy cream” for your meat. The outdoor tables are ideal in summer, yet my favorite feature of the place is its bar area, with personable barkeeps, good beers on tap, and Red Sox on the flatscreen.