Things To Do in Praiano

The preferred residence of the Amalfi doges -- who loved the beautiful views over Positano, Amalfi, and the Faraglioni of Capri -- Praiano is still popular among Italians (and an increasing number of glitz-phobic foreign visitors) for the same reason. The twin villages of Praiano and Vettica Maggiore, to the west, occupy the two faces of the promontory known as Capo Sottile. With a graceful profusion of porticos and domes, the medieval village is 120m (394 ft.) above sea level on the slopes of Monte Sant'Angelo. Strolling along the steep streets you'll encounter the church of San Gennaro -- technically in Vettica Maggiore -- crowned by a beautiful oval dome tiled with colored majolica. Its 18th-century majolica floor was re-created in 1966 according to the original design. The view from the church square is superb.

Do you have a musician in the family? You might not have thought of purchasing a musical instrument while on your vacation, but once you've visited this artisans' workshop, you might change your mind. At Bottega Scala, Via Umberto I 68A (tel. 089-874894; www.liuteriascala.com), the liutai (stringed instruments makers) Pasquale and Leonardo Scala create instruments using traditional techniques. They specialize in classical guitars but also make reproductions of early stringed instruments that date from medieval and baroque times and their famous clients include Pino Daniele.

For a good evening out and a historic pilgrimage, we suggest a visit to L'Africana, off SS 163 in Vettica Maggiore; take the elevator down to the seashore (tel. 339-2025267). This popular nightclub was a mythical hangout during the anni ruggenti (roaring years) of the 1960s, when it was the destination of choice of VIPs and their trendy friends. Set in a grotto right above the lapping sea, it re-opened in July 2011 after a three-year "rest" and is experiencing something of a revival. Don't be surprised if fishermen pull their nets up from the sea just beyond the edge of the dance floor; their fresh catch is what's on tomorrow's menus in town. The club is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9pm (closed Oct-Apr).