Things To Do in Punta Arenas

There are a surprising number of activities and sights to fill your day(s) while in Punta Arenas. When the wind is not overwhelming, it's a lovely town to stroll about. Begin your tour of Punta Arenas in the central Plaza Muñoz Gamero, where you'll find a bronze sculpture of Ferdinand Magellan donated by the region's long-ago wool czar José Menendez. Magellan is surrounded by lounging native Indians, one of whom has a shiny toe polished by the hundreds of visitors who kiss the nub each year; local lore here says that if you kiss the toe, you'll be lucky enough to visit Patagonia once again. The tranquil little plaza, delineated by cypress and other regional trees, has the visitor center gazebo, and several vendors here display crafts and souvenirs for sale. Around the plaza are old Punta Arenas' principal mansions and edifices from its boom times, which have, fortunately, been well kept over the decades.

From the plaza on Av. 21 de Mayo, head north toward Avenida Colón for a look at the Teatro Municipal, designed by the French architect Numa Mayer and modeled after the Teatro Colón in Buenos Aires. Head down to the waterfront and turn south toward the pier, where you'll find a 1913 clock imported from Germany that has a complete meteorological instrumentation and hands showing the moon's phases and a zodiac calendar. The entire port area is currently being redeveloped, with a giant new hotel and casino set to open in late 2009. There's also a lovely, new wide walkway and boulevard along the coast.

Punta Arenas is home to a duty-free shopping center called the Zona Franca, with several blocks of shops hawking supposedly cheaper electronics, home appliances, imported foodstuffs, sporting goods, perfumes, clothing, toys, booze, and cigarettes. It's a massive shopping mall, with big-box stores a la North America. The savings here are very negligible, except for on alcohol, although there certainly is a lot on offer, including a few supermarkets. This does make it a fair place to stock up on supplies if you're planning a backpacking trip to Torres del Paine -- otherwise, forget it. The Zona Franca is on Avenida Manuel Bulnes on the northern outskirts. It's open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 12:30pm and 3 to 8pm, and closed on holidays.

For regional crafts in town, try Chile Típico, Carrera Pinto 1015 (tel. 61/225827), which has knitwear, carved-wood items, lapis lazuli, and more. For high-end, artsy-craftsy household items, such as picture frames, candles, throws, curtains, and the like, try Almacén Antaño, Colón 100 (tel. 61/227283). Most afternoons see a collection of local artisans selling handicrafts in the city's main square, the Plaza de Armas. Look for wool sweaters and wooden toys there.

The city has a handful of good bars and pubs, plus a few discos, which I recommend only if you like to hang out with teenagers and listen to bad techno music. One of the most popular pubs is Santino, and it is especially suitable for large groups. Or try the more intimate ambience of the La Taberna (tel. 61/248840) cellar bar, below the Hotel José Nogueira at the corner of Bories and Sequel across from the plaza; appetizers are available. Another popular spot is Pub 1900 (tel. 61/242759), at the corner of Avenida Colón and Bories; yet another pub is the El Galeón, Av. 21 de Mayo 1243, below the Hotel Isla Rey Jorge (tel. 61/248220). The Cabo de Hornos Hotel (tel. 61/242134), on the plaza, has its chic bar but more somber atmosphere.

The Cine Estrella, Mejicana 777 (tel. 61/225630), is the only cinema in town. Call or check newspaper listings for what's playing.