QUÉBÉCOIS This earthy, adventurous restaurant started as a hole-in-the-wall kitchen, with a few oak barrels out front and lots of hanging plants. It served funky wines and food in jars and became the go-to for artsy, engaged eaters. Word spread (in part, by us) and it doubled in size and refined its overall look and feel. It still leads the pack for dishes cooked with butter, bacon, and intense cheeses and develops seasonal recipes to complement privately imported batches of wine. A source of pride is that guests can have a glass for C$6 to C$10 or a bottle for C$36 to C$60. Appetizers and cheese plates can start or end the night, served on house whim, between the hours of 5 and 6pm or 10pm and 1am.