Not surprisingly, this way casual undertaking has ties to L’Affaire est Ketchup. In this instance the name’s rough translation is “thingies and gadgets” or maybe, food-wise, “nibbles and bites.” That’s how the menu is divided: Machins are smallish: oysters, bisques, and such, while Patentes are main courses like red deer with juniper berries or giant roasted scallops. Grosses patentes are main courses built for two. Dining in this cramped, boisterous spot felt as close to going to a friend’s house for dinner as we could imagine—that is, if the friend is into high-quality food and goes the extra mile, but keeps it simple. Service is slow and inattentive but, then again, so are a lot of friends.