The financial crisis has severely limited hours at this delightful little house museum, but make a point of visiting nonetheless if you want to understand the intellectual, humanistic side of the city. Poet, philosopher, and novelist Miguel de Unamuno lived in this 18th-century home during his first term as university rector. A man of principle, he had to leave the country when dictator Primo de Rivera came to power and demanded that he censor his scholarship. When de Rivera fell, Unamuno returned exultant, but the euphoria was short-lived. Never have we seen a home where the life of the mind was so manifest, from his library of world masterpieces to his own photographs showing him with the top intelligentsia of his era. Unamuno was the symbol of a humanistic era of lofty values and high ideals, crushed in Spain’s descent into chaos. Indeed, he died of an apparent broken heart shortly after the Civil War began. Unamuno loved his adopted city deeply, once writing in a poem, “I keep your very soul in my heart. And you, my golden Salamanca, will keep my memory when I die.” And so it has.