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Things To Do in Salamanca

Salamanca Attractions

You probably won’t want to visit Salamanca in August, when the scorching midday makes even the lizards dash across the plazas in search of a sliver of shade. But at any other time, this is a stroller’s city, where new delights catch the eye at every turn. The Plaza Mayor ★★★ (see above) is the heart of the community, and in true academic fashion, it embodies the conflicting spirits of Spanish intellect. José Benito Churriguera’s design of the square is rational, cool, and neoclassical—but the decoration is utterly Baroque. Salamantinos gather here at all hours of the day and night to connect with each other, to talk, and (most of all) to eat and drink. When the sun sets and the stone plaza begins to cool, cafe tables spill out from beneath the arcades and “tunas” (student singers in old-fashioned academic cloaks) wander from table to table singing for tips.

About a quarter of the old city is devoted to buildings of the University of Salamanca, which reached its apex of influence in the 15th and 16th centuries but remains one of Spain’s most prestigious centers of scholarship. Courtyards around university buildings are generally open to the public, and the Patio de Escuelas Menores is a popular gathering point for tour groups as well as Salamantinos. Standing proudly in the center is a statue of 16th-century poet and scholar Fray Luis de León, the city’s poster boy for intellectual freedom and defiance of tyranny. Imprisoned for 4 years by the Inquisition for translating the Biblical “Song of Solomon” into Castilian, the scholar began his first lecture after returning to the classroom, “Decíamos ayer . . . ,” or “as we were saying yesterday. . .".

The architecture of Salamanca

Spanish baroque architecture takes the impulse for distortion to an extreme. The Churriguera family carved out a name for themselves with a style that owes a great deal to the forms assumed by twisted rope. José Benito Churriguera (1665–1725) and his brothers Joaquin (1674–1724) and Alberto (1676–1750) were stone sculptors who became architects. Their work in Salamanca, especially with altarpieces and the stucco work on building facades, spawned many imitators in Spain as well as in Mexico—hence the term Churrigueresque.


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Salamanca Shopping

The town's two main shopping neighborhoods extend around Calle Meléndez and the historic borders of Plaza Mayor. Both areas are good bets for fashion and housewares. A rastro, or flea market, is held every Sunday along Avenida de Aldehuela. It's best to go before noon. Buses go here from Plaza de España in the center of town. The best place for handicrafts is Aertesania Duenda, Calle San Pablo 29 (tel. 92-321-36-22), with one-of-a-kind items, often in wood, including music boxes and picture frames.

Mercatus (Calle Benedicto XVI, 22; tel. 677-579-827), the official university store, has the usual branded merchandise, but it also sells some terrific souvenirs that won’t embarrass you once you get home. Silk scarves reproduce the Cielo de Salamanca in all its mysterious beauty; you can also purchase T-shirts, tote bags, puzzles, and drink coasters emblazoned with the same image. Or go tacky and buy your budding scholar a bright stuffed frog, the good-luck talisman of Salamanca students. It’s open Mon–Sat 10am–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm.

Salamanca Nightlife

Don't expect a large variety of nightlife options; this is a small-scale university town with an emphasis on undergraduate shenanigans. Your best bet is a stroll around the Plaza Mayor, where you'll pass cafes and bars ideal for lingering or loitering, depending on your point of view. Usually a group of singing "tuna" dressed in medieval costumes perform for free nightly at 10pm, although these students appreciate tips. You might also wander onto such neighboring medieval streets as Calle de Bordadores, Calle San Vicente, Calle Rúa Mayor, and Calle Varillas, any of which offer tucked-away spots for a quick caffeine or alcohol fix.