San Lorenzo de El Escorial Travel Guide

48km (30 miles) W of Madrid, 52km (32 miles) SE of Segovia

Nestled in the Guadarrama mountains about 50km (31 miles) northwest of Madrid, this little town is dominated by the extraordinary monastery palace of El Escorial. It’s a favorite weekend getaway for madrileños as it’s usually several degrees cooler here than the capital, so booking the palace in advance is essential and take care to use the official site.

Plan to spend at least a couple of hours at the royal complex, then wander in the town’s manicured streets. There are good options for lunch. Charolés,Calle Floridablanca, 24 (tel. 91-890-59-75; menu 55€, cocido 33.50€), a short walk from the palace, serves traditional heavy Castilian fare, and claims its enormous cocido stew—served on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays—is the world’s best. By contrast, Montia, Calle Juan de Austria, 7 (tel. 91-133-69-88; menu from 115€, wine pairing from 58€), offers tiny, elaborate dishes as part of two lengthy tasting menus inspired by the mountain setting. Reservations are essential for both.