No longer the rather sober and restrained place it was during the long Franco era, the town comes alive at night, fueled mainly by the throngs of young people who pack into the bars and taverns, especially those along Calle Rey and Calle Floridablanca. One of my favorite bars, offering vats of wine or kegs of beer, is the Regina Piano Bar, Floridablanca (tel. 91-890-68-43;

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