Things To Do in San Sebastián

Irresistible to locals and visitors alike, the perfectly shell-shaped Playa de la Concha (pictured above) and adjoining Ondarreta beaches open onto San Sebastián’s stunning half-moon bay, protected from the waves by Santa Clara Island. Popular since sea-bathing was “invented” in the mid–19th century, these are two of the finest urban beaches in Atlantic Europe. Dog-walkers, joggers, swimmers, artists, and lovers make use of the sands from dawn to dusk. A

long the elegant promenade that flanks La Concha, the whiff of chlorine might tempt you into La Perla spa  (tel. 94-345-88-56), which occupies a period building and offers a “thalassotherapy circuit” with a variety of hot and cold pools.

On a hill dividing the two beaches, the Palacio de Miramar was once a summer palace favored by Queen María Cristina (namesake of the grandest hotel in town), who was taken down to bathe in a carriage pulled by oxen. The palace was opened in 1893, but once the monarchy fled Spain, the building fell into disrepair before being restored in the later 20th century. You can visit the gardens daily from 8am to 9pm (Oct–Mar, until 7:30pm), but although the palace is used for events, it is closed to visitors. Content yourself with the information panels outside.

Palacio de Ayete was constructed by the duke of Bailéen in 1878 and became the summer home of King Alfonso XIII and his queen, María Cristina, until their own Palacio de Miramar was completed. With 75,000 sq. m (807,300 sq. ft.) of parkland, the palace served as the summer home of Franco from 1940 until 1975. The residence remains closed to the public. However, you can wander through the beautiful grounds daily in summer from 8am to 9pm, and in the off season from 8am to 7pm. To reach it, take bus no. 19 to Ayete from Plaza de Guipúzcoa.

Two small mountains, Monte Igeldo and Monte Urgull, bracket the bay. You can easily hike around Monte Urgull on the wide sea-facing promenade Paseo Nuevo, or head to its summit; Monte Igeldo has a funicular and a hilltop amusement park. East of the bay and the beaches, the narrow streets of the Parte Vieja (Old Town) climb around the base of Monte Urgull, full of restaurants and shops. Surfers or wannabes should head for the city’s third beach, Zurriola, east of the river estuary.

San Sebastián's Famed Sculptors

Eduardo Chillida (1924–2002) was the greatest Basque sculptor of the 20th century, known mainly for his monumental abstract works in steel and stone. Born in San Sebastián, he returned to the region in 1959 and worked at his beautifully sited studio in the hills outside town. Visitors don’t have to go far to see one of Chillida’s signature works, the “Comb of the Wind,” which rises from the rocks at the base of Monte Igeldo, meeting the sea at the west end of Playa de la Concha. Viewed from one direction, the “Comb of the Wind” resembles giant calipers, a tool associated with Basque mariners and their legendary charts. Across the bay behind the aquarium (see above) is the “Construcción Vacía” (“Empty Construction”), the work of Jorge Oteiza (1908–2003), another revered Basque sculptor.

Anyone seriously interested in Basque sculpture should travel to nearby Hernani to visit the open-air museum Chillida Leku (Barrio Jauregui, 66, Hernani; tel. 94-333-59-63), where some of Chillida’s most engaging works are displayed in a spacious garden setting. Smaller pieces are displayed inside the typical Basque farmhouse, restored by the sculptor over a 14-year period. There is a gift shop and a cafe serving light meals that feature Basque produce. Opening times are Thursday to Monday, 10am‒5pm. Tickets can be booked online: 14€ adults, 10€ students and seniors, 7€ ages 17 and under, free for kids 7 and under. To reach the museum, catch the half-hourly BU05 bus line from San Martin or Easo streets in San Sebastián the city—it takes 30 minutes to reach the bus stop right outside the museum.

Recommended Tours of San Sebastián

If time is limited, consider employing an expert to show you the best of the city. San Sebastián Guides was created by a small group of Basque afficionados and experts. Rather than fumble your way around with maps and stumble over menu translations, let these knowledgeable locals show you the best bars in which to hang out and the choicest pintxos on which to nibble. Their services extend well beyond that, with guided city and museum tours, as well as day tours along the coast, into the Basque hinterland and even into the French Basque Country. Contact them via the online form on their website.