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Selene opened in Fira in 1986 and pioneered inventive cooking with local ingredients here. In 2010, it moved from the island's capital to a restored 19th century mansion in the tranquil inland village of Pyrgos. There, Selene's owner, George Hazyiannakis, continues to focus on what he calls the "creative nature of Greek cuisine." Santorini’s local produce is as unique as the island's volcanic landscape: Tomatoes are tiny, capers are enormous, and eggplant is white, not purple. Entrees include sea bass marinated in a vinagrette of oil, vinegar, and the ingredients of Greek salad (ripe tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives and capers). I never thought I'd cherish happy memories of sardines until I tasted Selene's sardines served with a beet root carpaccio, walnuts   and walnut oil.  In addition to its white-tablecloth restaurant, Selene has a casual Meze and Wine Bar, where the selection is just as wide, the quality is just as high, and the prices are much lower. If you want to learn how to recreate some of what you've eaten, check out Selene's one- and three- day cooking courses. During the (€65 ) "Selene Experience," held three days a week, you watch food being prepared before eating it. Selene also runs its own excellent Folk Museum next door.