To really understand the heart and soul of Andalusia, you need an appreciation of this wonderfully emotive form of song and dance. And you won't get a more authentic introduction than at this great little museum. The artistic director, Cristina Hoyos, is one of Spain's most celebrated flamenco dancers. Immersive audiovisual displays in six rooms on the first floor explain the history and traditions of the dance. I particularly like the second room, where you can watch a selection of the main styles of flamenco on larger-than-life-sized screens, with commentary in English. Room four features a selection of outfits worn by famous performers, including one that Cristina herself worn when she sang at the Barcelona Olympics in 1992. The upper floor hosts a couple of galleries given over to modern art inspired by flamenco. When I last visited, there were huge swirling canvases by Gonzalo Conradi, who paints while a performance is taking place for added inspiration. The ground floor hosts a small, intimate stage in its central patio, where nightly performances of some of the most authentic flamenco in the city take place. Enthralled spectators have included Camilla the Duchess of York, the Japanese Prime Minister, and even Nick Nolte.