If you’ve ever tasted the Manzanilla Barbiana from Sanlúcar de Barrameda, you already know what kind of food to expect at this related restaurant planted next to Plaza Nueva. Tangy and yeasty, with a hint of green almonds, it’s a perfect complement to fish from the Huelva coast and crustaceans from Sanlúcar itself, and that’s exactly what Barbiana serves. The kitchen offers mixed seafood with rice (not paella) at midday but not in the evening, when the volume of diners steers the menu toward quicker preparations like tortillitas de camarones, a fried batter of chickpea flour with tiny whole shrimp, or grilled rockfish (sargo) on garlicky red peppers.