Officially called Bodega Santa Cruz, but known to locals as "Las Colomnas" after the two Roman pillars that support the front of the bar, this is the place I often take visitors if I want to show them a no-nonsense tapas bar. It's right in the midst of the tourist district. The food is fine, although nothing remarkable, but the atmosphere is always absolutely buzzing, particularly at lunchtime. It's like a microcosm of Sevillian society in one room. People shout orders at the barmen across the heads of each other, and tapas get passed at shoulder height across to them. Somehow, the barmen keep tabs on people's orders by chalking them up on the ancient bar, bellowing each item back to the chefs in the tiny kitchen. The noise is immense, the beer and wine flow, and people are genuinely friendly even if you can't speak more than two words of Spanish. The tapas are written up on a chalkboard behind the bar, and they're cheap, too. There's always a daily special, which I often go for. Last time it was tuna steak in a tomato and onion sauce. My veggie wife loves the deep-fried zucchini with honey, and I rather like the Russian salad, and we wash all of it down with tumblers of icy-cold local beer. Go for the experience—you won't regret it. My top tip is to try and wiggle yourself into a spot at the bar—it's much easier to get served this way.