Formerly the culinary genius behind one of Seville's most romantic restaurants, Egaña Oriza, Chef Jose Mari Egaña decided to set up on his own place in 2013 on new premises much closer to the cathedral. Despite the move, he and his kitchen staff are still creating his delicious dishes, inspired by his home province of the Basque Country but with interesting contemporary flourishes. Given the close proximity of Basque Country to the sea, it's no surprise that Jose Mari's fish dishes are particularly good. Standouts include scallops in a wild mushroom and wine sauce and lobster with zucchini in a mustard cream sauce.

If you want something lighter, you can sample his fine cooking from the good-value tapas menu at both lunch and dinner. My favorites include a salty, smooth seafood mousse on crusty bread with anchovy and a crunchy, piquant pincho (small skewer) of octopus, mild chili, and pickled onion. Service is really friendly and the ambience is informal and relaxed. Menus are available in English and the good wine list features some much underappreciated and interesting new local Andalusian wines. The private dining room, which can comfortably seat 10, also contains an interesting surprise—you dine on a glass floor with the remains of an old Roman villa right under your feet.

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