El Rinconcillo was established in 1670 on a small street east of Plaza de Encarnación. It was no doubt updated sometime in the last 3-plus centuries, but not recently—which is, of course, its charm. The latest additions to the decor were the Art Nouveau tile murals installed sometime in the late 19th or early 20th century. The lights are dim, and hams and sausage dangle from the heavily beamed ceilings. Good luck scoring one of the marble-topped tables. We usually stand at the bar where the bartender runs our tab in chalk. Some of the most famous tapas are the house croquetas and the casserole of chickpeas and spinach.