There are now four places around the historic center that bear the name La Azotea. All offer utterly exquisite food, but this location is where it all started—and it's the one that locals tend to frequent most. If any restaurant is doing tapas that deserve the term "gastro," it's this one. And the mastermind behind it all, Chef Juan, is usually the guy directing the busy kitchen. Each tapa is almost a meal in itself, and they are totally divine. The one I come back to again and again is the morcilla (black pudding) with caramelized onions topped with a quail's egg. Smooth, salty, crumbly, sweet—it's hard to find adjectives to do it justice. Last time I was there, I also tried the daily special of suckling pig with roasted potatoes in a sweet tomato sauce and the most lip-smacking of desserts, orange cream with homemade mint ice cream and gin. There's a good wine list and the atmosphere is friendly and busy. Other locations are in Zaragoza, Mateos Gago (just up from the cathedral and easiest of the locations to reach if you're in the thick of sightseeing), and Conde de Barajas.