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After a day of scrambling, sweating, and climbing the temples, there's nothing like a bit of pampering to round things out, and with the tidal-wave rise in tourism in Siem Reap, all kinds of services are popping up. On the high end of the scale, contact the Sofitel Hotel (on the way to the temples on Vithei Charles de Gaulle; tel. 063/964-600), the Raffles Grand Hotel D'Angkor (at the very town center; tel. 063/963-888), and the Angkor Palace (tel. 063/760-511).

In town, try Visaya Spa at the plush FCC complex (Pokambor Ave. just north of the post office; tel. 063/760-814), which has three stylish treatment rooms and a roster of high-end services including body scrubs, wraps, facials, aqua therapy, and massages, all at high prices for this part of the world (a 90-min. massage is $40) but worth it. Contact them to make a reservation or just stop in. Open daily from 10am to 10pm.

Frangipani, a small storefront spa just down a little alley opposite the Blue Pumpkin in the area north of the Old Market, offers a fine roster of treatments, from facials and aromatherapy to oil massage and traditional massage. A good, little find with a professional staff offering services starting at just $18 per hour for a traditional massage. For booking, call tel. 012/982-062.

Body Tune Spa, in the very heart of Pub Street (btw. the Red Piano and the Soup Dragon restaurant; tel. 012/444-066), is in the midmarket range (about $10) with good affordable services and some burgeoning style.

On the lower end of the scale, where you can expect to pay as little as $6 for an hour of massage, try any of the small storefronts just north of the Old Market, in the popular tourist area. Services vary at these little storefronts, now numbering five and growing. For good Khmer massage, similar to Thai massage, try Islands Traditional Khmer Massage (north of Psar Chas; tel. 012/757-120). The most affordable massage in town, and a great way to support local enterprise, is at one of the many massage schools for the blind. Trained by international volunteers, blind masseuses -- who in Khmer society might have little other chance in life -- are able to make a comfortable living. There are a few different sights; one that's convenient and very professional is Seeing Hands IV (tel. 012/286-316 or 286-317) on central Sivatha near the Tell Restaurant and the Dead Fish Tower Bar. Trained by Japanese and endorsed by Aus Aid and the Blind Care Foundation, masseuses are professional, and for only $5, you can't go wrong. Most folks tip heavily here and come away with a unique connection. Call or just stop in.

The newest trend in Siem Reap is fish massage, where hundreds of tiny fish feed on your feet to remove dead skin cells and increase circulation. To try it, head to Pub Street or the night market where you will find pools set up.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.