Florencio Martínez is the big starfish among Sitges chefs, and his venerable El Velero is the city’s leading seafood establishment. It sits right on the promenade at the beach; the elegant scene is indoors, but when the weather is balmy, ask for a table on the glassed-in terrace that opens onto the esplanade. The workhorse fish here is daurada (gilthead bream), a member of the bass family, and the size of the catch will determine the preparation. Small bream are often baked in salt or pan-fried like Dover sole, while larger fish are cut into steaks rather than filets and roasted with fresh herbs and a garlicky aioli. If you’re in the mood for beef, the chateaubriand for two with a Spanish brandy sauce is both spectacular and a good deal. David Martínez, the chef’s son, is the expert sommelier who is happy recommending a brisk Empordà white for the fish or a dignified Poblet red for the meat.