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The modest dining room at Mary's Boon Beach Resort is small and a little off the radar. But it has much going for it, including a setting so close to the waters of Simpson Bay that the spray from the sea practically perfumes your meal. It has in its chef, Leona, the culinary wisdom culled from running a small but respectable hotel kitchen for nearly 40 years. The food is the genuine deal, flavorful and fresh, and the six-course prix-fixe "Caribbean dinner" changes nightly (except Sunday), with entrees ranging from lobster Creole to veal Dijonnaise to roast duck. On Sundays, the Tides hosts a champagne brunch ($35, $25 children). Reservations are recommended.