Suva Attractions

Although you could easily spend several days poking around the capital, most visitors come here for only a day, usually on one of the guided tours from Nadi or the Coral Coast. That's enough time to see the city's highlights, particularly if you make the walking tour described below.

Sitting on a ridge about 1km (1/2 mile) southeast of downtown, the Parliament of Fiji, Battery Road off Vuya Road (tel. 330 5811), resides under a modern shingle-covered replica of a traditional Fijian roof. Parliament has not convened here since the 2006 coup, so call the main number or check with the Fiji Visitors Bureau before your visit.

Colo-I-Suva Forest Park -- At an altitude of 121 to 182m (400-600 ft.), Colo-I-Suva Forest Park, on the Prince's Road 11km (6 1/2 miles) from downtown Suva (tel. 332 0211), provides a cool, refreshing respite from the heat -- if not the humidity -- of the city below. You can hike the system of trails through the heavy indigenous forests and stands of mahogany to one of several lovely waterfalls that cascade into swimming holes. Bring walking shoes with good traction because the trails are covered with gravel or slippery soapstone. The park is open daily 8am to 4pm. Admission is F$5 (US$3.20/£1.70). Take a taxi or the Sawani bus, which leaves Suva Municipal Market every 30 minutes. Do not leave valuables unattended in your vehicle or anywhere else.

Suva Shopping

Your walking tour of Suva will give you a good idea of where to shop for handicrafts, cameras, electronic gear, and clothing. Most of the city's top shops are along Victoria Parade and on Cumming Street. The largest and most reliable merchants are Jack's of Fiji, at Thomson and Pier streets, opposite the Fiji Visitors Bureau; Prouds, in the Suva Central building on Renwick Road at Pratt Street; and Tappoo, which has a large store at the corner of Thomson and Usher streets. Note that Jack's Suva store has a very small handicraft section; here, it's mostly a clothing and accessories outlet. The prices are fixed in these stores, but bargaining is the order of the day in Suva's so-called duty-free shops.

Suva has some fine tropical clothing outlets, several of them on Victoria Parade near the Regal Theatre. The upmarket resort- and beachwear specialist Sogo Fiji is on Victoria Parade, opposite the theater.

Stamp collectors will find colorful first-day covers from Fiji and other South Pacific island countries at the Philatelic Bureau (tel. 330 2022; www.stampsfiji.com), on the first floor of the General Post Office. It's open Monday to Thursday from 8am to 4pm, Friday to 3:30pm. American Express, MasterCard, and Visa cards are accepted.

Handicrafts -- Before buying handicrafts, be sure to visit the Fiji Museum and its excellent shop.

Sword Seller Reprise -- Although the government has chased most of them off the streets, you may still be approached by the sword sellers I warned you about in "Shopping" in Nadi. Avoid them!

Suva Nightlife

Nocturnal activities in Suva revolve around going to the movies and then hitting the bars -- until the wee hours on Friday, the biggest night out.

Movies are a big deal, especially the first-run Hollywood and Indian "Bollywood" flicks at Village 6 Cinemas (tel. 330 6006), on Scott Street at Nubukalou Creek, a modern, American-style emporium with six screens and a games arcade upstairs. Check the newspapers for what's playing and showtimes. Locals flock here on Sunday afternoon, when these plush, air-conditioned theaters offer a comfortable escape from Suva's sunshine and humidity.

Trap's Bar, 305 Victoria Parade, 2 blocks south of the Pizza Hut (tel. 331 2922), is a popular watering hole where you're not likely to witness a fight. A band usually plays in the back room on weekends. O'Reilly's, on MacArthur Street off Victoria Parade (tel. 331 2968), is an Irish-style pub that serves Guinness stout and sports on TVs (and it can get a bit rough, depending on who's winning the rugby matches).

Victoria Parade has a number of loud discothèques frequented by a young, noisy crowd.

Remember: Suva has a serious crime problem, so be careful when bar hopping. Guard your valuables, and always take a taxi to and from your hotel after dark, particularly if you've had a few drinks.