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On my last visit to Sydney’s one–and–only tiki bar, head bartender Michael Chiem was being grilled by a couple of regulars on drink recipes and booze history in preparation for the upcoming competition for Sydney’s best bartender. He didn’t miss a question—not surprising, as his cocktails don’t miss a note, either. Chiem is practicing serious mixology here despite the wonderfully silly glasses everything come in (hooray for monkey heads and faux pineapples!). And that, in a nutshell—er, coconut shell—sums up the appeal of this woven–grass covered, maori sculpture–happy bar: it laughs at itself while delivering up world-class mixed drinks, excellent bar foods, and on weekends, a raucous dance party in the central area (the scene’s mellower on weeknights).