advertisement

Before the lamb shoulder ever hits a customers place, ti's brined for 24-hours to evenly distribute moisture through the cut. Then, for another 24 hours, it's pressed with heavy weights to break down the fibers of the meat, before its slow cooked for a few more hours. What the diner finally receives, coated with a savory sauce and sided by perfectly cooked egglant and kale, has a flavor that is so intensely pleasurable, it may spoil them for less-expertly prepared lamb in the future. This elaborate process is orchestrated by wunderkind Brent Savage who, in 2014 was named by Good Eats as the best chef in Sydney and by Time Out Sydney as one of the top "rising stars". And you won't have to order the lamb to understand why: pretty much everything on the menu on the menu is raised to the level of that exquisite dish, whether you order the mulloway (a fish native to the area) which has a perfectly crisp skin and flaky interiior, its taste enhanced by a vibrant green sauce and a helping of the peppery Aisan green caluce and some lovely mushrooms; or the perfectly seared Scotch filet. The menu is short (with such elaborate prep, you can understand why!), but filled with winners. And we're guessing that the restaurant is named "Yellow" for its casual decor of wooden tables (crammed quite close together, unfortunately) and walls that seemed to have been just barely touched by the morning sun. In short: ignore the shortcomings of the simple, crowded and loud dining room to catch the work of a chef whose name you'll likely know soon.

-Pauline Frommer