For some travelers, a resort with wonderful modern conveniences is what it takes to make a tropical island experience relaxing. For others, though, real relaxation comes from an escape from modern distractions. Small chalets in the kampungs have minimal facilities and few or no conveniences, such as hot showers and telephones. Why would you want to stay in them? Because they're simple, close to the beach, and less touristy.
Of the budget choices, a good bet is Samudra Swiss Cottage (Kampung Tekek; tel. 09/419-1642; www.samudra-swiss-cottage.com). Book early to get one of the two seaview bungalows (RM140), wooden houses on stilts with private verandahs that overlook the beach. Inside they're simple and fan-cooled, with a hot shower and nice mosquito nets around a comfortable queen-sized bed.