Restaurants in Toledo

The first cookbook in Spanish was published in Toledo in 1525, entitled the Book of Stews, Delicacies and Soups. Five hundred years on it’s not a bad description of Toledo’s celebrated cuisine, shaped by the rugged Manchegan landscape and the city’s multicultural past. The striking signature dish is perdiz a la Toledana (partridge casserole with garlic, herbs, wine, and olive oil), much discussed by visitors to Toledo, not always appreciatively. As James Michener pointed out to a ruddy-faced Englishman in his travel memoir Iberia: “I’m afraid there’s nothing wrong with your partridge, sir. It’s how they serve it in Spain. A delicacy. Well hung.” Expect it to be aged and quite gamey. If that’s not to your taste, the roast lamb (cordero asado) and suckling pig (cochinillo) are superb, as are rustic stews and soups such as carcamusa, a rich pork casserole with tomatoes and peas—often served as a bar snack—and sopa Castellana, involving garlic, bread, egg, paprika, and lots of the excellent local olive oil.

Much of Spain’s prized saffron (azafrán) is cultivated in the crocus fields of La Mancha, and Toledo’s other great delicacy is marzipan (mazapán), which you’ll see as a finale on many menus (see below). No one is quite sure who first had the idea to mix ground almonds, sugar, and eggs, but the first known recipe for it appears in that same 1525 cookbook.

We do know that the nuns of Toledo began making the confection of ground almonds, sugar, and eggs known as mazapán in the 13th century. According to legend, a flour shortage after the battle of Las Navas de Tolosa forced them to improvise to feed a hungry population.

Although the sweet treat probably has Moorish roots, the closed convent of San Clemente, Calle San Clemente, 1 (tel. 92-522-29-30), claims to be the original source, using the splendid tagline: “Marzipan and home-made pastries since 1212.” Ring the bell and you’ll be buzzed in, then a nun will appear behind a grilled hatch to take your order. Pre-packaged boxes of marzipan cost around 15€. Although it’s a charming experience, you can find better value at local commercial outlets. At branches of Santo Tomé—competing with nuns since 1856—you can assemble your own assortment for around 10€ a box or just buy one piece for a quick shot of sugar. Look out for the marzipan sculpture of Don Quijote in the window of its store at Calle Santo Tomé, 3.