One chef can turn around a city’s dining habits. Adolfo Muñoz, the charismatic and talented champion of modernized La Manchan cooking, did that in Toledo. This flagship of his restaurant group, located in a late medieval structure near the cathedral, offers the greatest hits of Toledan cuisine: the dishes served all over Spain but always attributed to Toledo. Game is first and foremost, with a glorious version of perdiz a la Toledana, the classic pickled partridge slow-cooked in olive oil. Muñoz serves it with a puddle of reduced cooking juices and a circle of intensely red rice and herbs. Part of what makes Toledan cuisine distinctive is the use of both fresh and dried fruit in many savory dishes. It’s part of the Moorish heritage of the city, and Muñoz nods to it by accompanying roast suckling pig with a side of sliced green apples quickly sautéed in pork fat. He also sometimes serves the rack of venison with a sauté of onions, carrots, and dried fruits. Reservations required!
- Frommer's Staff