Turin gave the world the aperitif vermouth, which was invented in 1786 by Antonio Benedetto Carpano; the brands Martini and Cinzano are still made in the Piedmont region. Order a glass at the gorgeous Art Nouveau Caffè Mulassano at Piazza Castello 15 (www.caffemulassano.com; tel. 011/547-990), or come early to enjoy coffee and tempting cannoli or dainty fruit tarts at the ornate marble counter.
Nightlife in the city that invented the vermouth aperitivo is sophisticated and, like Milan, starts in the cafes and bars and finishes very, very late. Squeeze in with the Torinese at the bar of Caffè Platti (Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 72; (tel) 011-454-6151) for a vermouth, and pick from the plates of enticing little pizzas made on the premises. Choose a Slow Food restaurant for dinner, and then join models and footballers to dance at Kogin’s (Corso Sicilia 6; (tel) 011-661-0546).
Dance, opera, theater, and musical performances (mostly classical) are on the agenda all year around—check the website www.visitatorino.com—but September is the month to really enjoy classical music in Turin, when more than 60 classical concerts are staged around the city during the month-long Settembre Musica festival (www.mitosettembremusica.it), which is hosted together with the city of Milan. Beyond the festivals you’ll find classical concerts at Auditorium della RAI, Via Rossini 15 (www.orchestrasinfonica.rai.it; (tel) 011-810-4653) and dance performances and operas staged at the city’s venerable Teatro Regio (www.teatroregio.torino.it; (tel) 011-8815-557.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.