Nearly 2 decades in, it's still the hot ticket in town, promising high romance under a thicket of tall palms. A location decidedly away from the beach has not dimmed the evergreen popularity of this upscale spot, nestled in a grove of towering palms lit for maximum cinematic effect at night. It's a special-occasion spot as much for the ambience as for the first-rate, freshly prepared food, from a duck confit and porcini ravioli to a blackened mahi in a red Thai curry sauce. You can make a meal of the starters, including lobster and avocado spring rolls, tuna poke, and a pepper-crusted beef carpaccio. This is one of the island's top restaurants, so you may want to reserve before you even arrive on island. It's so popular, in fact, that it recently opened its own food truck next door, Cocovan ★★ (www.cocovan.tc) serving excellent, reasonably priced fare from a restored 1974 Airstream, with a full bar and alfresco tables.